Chang’an Small Restaurant

Chapter 2 Five-Color Vegetarian Noodles 

Shen Shaoguang's back was upright; her expression dignified, with a reserved smile on her face. She stood by the way of: lose your face but not your stance.  Even if all the feathers were lost, she’d still proudly spread her wings.

Confused by her momentum, the buddhist nun in charge of reception hesitated for a while but finally took her to see the abbot.

The abbot looked to be around her sixties, with a round face and a kind smile. "Shen— Is this benefactor the virtuous young lady of the Shen Clan?"

Shen Shaoguang sighed with sorrow and said softly, "We have disgraced our ancestors, let’s put this matter behind."

Most assuredly. The abbot nodded, "It explains this benefactor's noble bearing."

During this current dynasty, complementing one’s character was adding dignity and face. It’s roughly equivalent to getting a five-star review on Taobao[1]. It was an easy favor, so Shen Shaoguang smiled and accepted her good will.

The abbot was easy going and readily agreed to Shen Shaoguang's request of lodging at their nunnery.

Although the abbot didn't take it seriously, Shen Shaoguang insisted on paying the proper amount according to the market prices for three months of lodging at a nunnery. "Senior Buddhist Nun is kind enough to take me in, this favor must be repaid."

The Senior Buddhist Nun replied with a smile, "Since the young benefactor believes in a green hedge between friends[2], then we shall comply."

Shen Shaoguang awkwardly smiled back. She was no friend, more like a villain; they were kind enough to take her in, but she was using this as a second measure in case they changed their minds... Nevertheless, ‘renting’ was much more reassuring than ‘lending’.

There just so happened to be no other pilgrims staying in the nunnery, there were also an even number of nuns, so there was no half-empty double room. Perhaps due to the words ‘Shen’ and ‘noble bearing’ attached to her, Shen Shaoguang was allocated two exceptional main meditation rooms, both spacious and bright.

In order to express her gratitude, Shen Shaoguang personally made a bowl of Five-Color Vegetarian Noodles and sent it to the abbot.

In fact, there was nothing worth noting about these noodles, other than its colorful presentation and tedious recipe.

Cluster mallow and perilla were muddled for its purple and green edible dyes. Milling coarse rice grains and black sesame would produce yellow and black flour. The last color was regular noodles made of white flour. The flour dough is then divided into five equal portions and then colored with its respective coloring agent. When cooking the noodles, it’s also advised to boil the noodles separately, changing the water every time, to avoid the soup base becoming too starchy, cloudy, and unattractive in color.

The noodles were the presentation of the dish while the taste depended entirely on the soup base. The broth was made from slow boiling mountain mushrooms. Mushrooms were jam packed of amino acids and produced a umami flavor. Only such a rich soup could harmonize the unique flavors of the five-color noodles.

The abbot had already had dinner by the time Shen Shaoguang delivered this bowl of noodles, but this bowl of noodles looked so appetizing, she couldn't help herself.

"Cluster mallow flavored, perilla flavored, coarse rice flavored, hmm, the sesame flavored is the most delicious..." The abbot had a very keen sense of taste.

Watching the abbot finish the whole bowl, Jing Qing, her direct disciple, pursed her lips. She just announced that she was going to watch her diet to maintain her health, Master’s words can’t be trusted! Though this bowl of noodles sure looks and smells amazing, Benefactor Shen is unexpectedly skilled at cooking.

This bowl of noodle invoked the abbot’s memories. The elderly nun counted all kinds of noodles she had eaten, "The mutton udon soup in the Northwest is also delectable. You have to put a lot of pepper into it, best to eat it while it’s very spicy. The hand-pulled-dough noodles in Hangzhou City pairs best with a clear chicken broth. Heshuo[3] Province's Lor mee noodle is phenomenal with fried sparrow meat paste, always served with a side of shredded cucumber and coriander. Our Chang’an’s cold noodles is most refreshing with shrimp or mandarin fish..."

Shen Shaoguang listened with a smile, she didn't expect the abbot to travel to so many places, how envious! Though she seemed to have caught onto something important, the abbot didn’t abstain from meat... Does that mean she also didn’t have to abide by a lacto-vegetarian diet?

In order to please the abbot, Shen Shaoguang went along and agreed to whatever she said. 

"It is exactly as Senior Buddhist Nun just said. Food is subjective; different at different times, different at different places, different for each individual."

Shen Shaoguang wasn’t the best at cooking, but her commentary skills were quite honed. She smiled and continued, "No matter how refreshing, it would feel a little off consuming cold noodles during the twelfth lunar month. Mutton udon soup would be too heavy in flavor to consume in Hangzhou City, while the natives in the Northwest may find the hand-pulled-dough in clear broth too bland. Scholar officials may enjoy cold noodles with mandarin fish, but ordinary commoners would prefer to eat meat. Particularly braised fatty pork, to them, that is what they find fragrant and flavorful. Such is the saying, everything varies, person, time, and place.”

Her abstract explanation fluently elevated the abbot's words.

The abbot clapped her hands and laughed, "Wonderful! It couldn't have been said anything better. Our discussion today is enough to fill a <The Classic of Noodle>.

Shen Shaoguang said jokingly, "A classic written by a master who has traveled far and near, and experienced and witnessed various joys and hardships. If senior nun was to really publish a <The Classic of Noodle>, I would graciously volunteer as your scribe."

She then added, "Scholar Lu has already published <The Classic of Tea>[4]. If senior nun was to write the <The Classic of Noodle>, it would be a blessing for all who enjoy the pleasures of food."

The abbot was even more delighted when Shen Shaoguang compared herself with Lu Yu. This child had such a sweetmouth. The abbot only mentioned it casually, but Shen Shaoguang’s words piqued the abbot’s interest. Why not try writing it? Otherwise, all the roads she traveled, all the foods she relished, would go to naught.

Jing Qing smiled with a mix of relief and helplessness. Other than enjoying good food, her master didn’t have any other hobbies. Unfortunately, as her master once said, none of her disciples shared this ‘root of wisdom’, thankfully she finally found a bosom friend...

Not long after Shen Shaoguang went back to her room, Jing Qing brought Jing Ci, the nun with the sloping eyebrows, over. Each of them was carrying a large flower pot. A pot of tree peony and a pot of jasmine, both in full bloom.

Jing Qing smiled and explained, "Master asked me to send two pots of flowers to benefactor. Too add some fragrance to your room."

Knowing that this was a return gift from the bowl of noodles, Shen Shaoguang hurriedly expressed her thanks. After a few more pleasantries, she personally walked the two nuns out.

"Senior sister, even if Miss Shen was from the Shen Clan, she’s definitely from a minor branch. She doesn’t look like anything special, so why is our Master treating her so courteously?" Jing Ci noticed Shen Shaoguang's room was really simple decorated. Moreover, she didn’t even have a servant girl serving her, so it can be seen that she was really poor.

No matter what, as a good disciple, Jing Qing could not truthly answer her junior and blame it on her Master’s gluttony and that delectable bowl of noodles. Without much of an option, Jing Qing could only muddle through.

Jing Ci shook her head disapprovingly. Truly envious to have a good surname.

After settling down in Guangming Nunnery on Chongxian Lane, Shen Shaoguang started to plan her own food service business.

The first step was to complete a detailed market analysis. She had briefly surveyed the area before, but if she wanted to succeed, a ‘brief survey’ wouldn’t surfice.

***

All the nuns attended a mandatory morning class, so when the morning drum sounded, they all got up. Although Shen Shaoguang didn't need to attend class, she also got up at dawn. After she washed her face and tidied her appearance, Shen Shaoguang left the house with a few wén coins[5].

It was still early, so there weren't many people on the street. There were a couple of stalls that were already open. From a distance, Shen Shaoguang could make out the light from a fire, with the familiar smell of toasted sesame seeds, she accurately guessed they were baking sesame seed flat cakes.

The stall owner was a young man with thick eyebrows and big eyes. He seemed to have opened very early as he had already baked two ovens full of flat cakes. The finished loaves were placed in a large bamboo basket and covered with a thin cloth.

It was rare to see such a young lady to be up so early to buy flat cakes, moreover she was a new face, so the young man couldn’t help but give Shen Shaoguang a second glance.

Shen Shaoguang looked back at him with lifted brows.

The stall owner’s ears reddened. Trying to mask his embarrassment, he quickly wiped his hands on the apron, took out a flat cake from the basket, and handed it to her.

Shen Shaoguang took a bite while it was still hot. The exterior was slightly crisp while the inside was fluffy. She could taste some salt and pepper, which added a nice touch. Such a yummy flat cake was only three wén coins, this was really hard earned money.

Not far away was another stall, selling hand-pulled-dough noodles. Their water was already boiling, ready to cook fresh noodles as soon as an order was placed.

Just a little further was a large eatery. Shen Shaoguang entered and counted twenty total tables. Their menu was hanging behind the counter, the selections included steamed mutton bun, stuffed lamb flat cake, candied jujube congee, mutton noodle soup, and other savory breads.

There were only two diners in the shop, Shen Shaoguang chose a seat at the farthest side and sat down. She ordered a bowl of mutton noodle soup, shredded the flat cake that she bought earlier into pieces, and soaked it in the soup.

There were only four slices of mutton in the soup, and it tasted quite gamey. Those who preferred this flavor would say it’s delicious, but those who didn’t might find this strong flavor too pungent. This bowl of soup cost ten wén coins.

After finishing the soup, Shen Shaoguang strolled through the whole area, assessing all the possible foods they had to offer here and ended up at the Lane’s gate. The doors were still locked, so she stood there waiting until the curfew was officially lifted. She spent all morning walking around and only returned to the nunnery when it was afternoon.

The following days were spent the same way, the itinerary was similar, but her choice of food differed each day.

After completing her investigation, Shen Shaoguang finally made up her mind. She first bought all the kitchen utensils necessary, then went to buy ingredients, and spent almost all of her savings. One could say she was going all in for this venture.

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Footnotes:

[1] Taobao - The largest online shopping portal in china. Think America’s Amazon and a five star review raving about how amazing your product is.

[2] green hedge between friend - The original text was 君子之交, which translates to ‘Friendship between gentlemen, insipid as water’ (idiom). I found an English equivalent: 

‘A hedge between keeps friendship green’.

It’s a proverb meaning friendships are more likely to be successful when there is a level of space and privacy between the friends. 

[3]  Heshuo Province - Heshuo refers to the area north of the Yellow River, roughly including parts of present-day Shanxi, Hebei, and Shandong.

[4]  Lu Yu’s <The Classic of Tea> - Lu Yu or Lu Ji, courtesy name Jici was a Chinese tea master and writer. He is respected as the Sage of Tea for his contribution to Chinese tea culture. He is best known for his monumental book The Classic of Tea, also known as Ch'a Ching, the first definitive work on cultivating, making and drinking tea.

[5]  wén coins - The wén was one of the chief units of currency in China. Other denominations were used based on the tael system, for sycee silver and gold ingots. A string of 1000 wén was supposed to be equal in value to one tael of silver.

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