Chang’an Small Restaurant

Chapter 78.2 Sweet and Sour

Shao Jie examined a few more locations, discussed them with Shen Shaoguang, and they finally decided on the store in Qinren Lane.

Qinren Lane was a large, prestigious area located in the southwest of the East Market. It was also considered a ‘high-end’ lane. Princess Imperial of fuhui's residence was situated here. The princess's mansion, built on the foundation of the renowned ‘Chixia Garden’, was celebrated for its elegance and exquisiteness, though it was not very large in scale.

Chixia Garden was famed for its exquisite flowers, most notably the herbaceous peonies, chrysanthemums, and camellias. A popular saying declared, "the finest view of flowers is in Chixia." Originally, this garden was the private residence of Lady of Han (also known as Wu Shun/武顺) during the reign of Emperor Xuanzong. After the Tianbao Era incident[1], Lady of Han passed away, and the garden was bequeathed to Zhou Yan, a distinguished general who quelled the rebellion. Zhou Yan, a descendant of the illustrious Zhou Clan from Yingchuan County, transformed the garden from a somewhat vulgar space into an unparalleled work of elegance. Sadly, his son was later convicted for uttering heinous words, implicating his father and forefathers, leading to the garden's transfer of ownership once again.

As Ole Bai articulated in his poem <Wretched Houses[2]>: 

"First come the houses of generals and ministers. 

They offend, in their abandonment, longing to be used. 

Beyond, are those of the Imperial court, 

Lying there sick, full of the dead. 

Further still, are four or five great villas, their calamities 

And misfortunes following each other down the generations." 

This renowned garden had acquired a reputation for illustrating that 'great houses reveal the failures of their masters.' However, Princess Imperial of fuhui was undeterred by this notion. She acquired the property and transformed it into her princess residence.

When Shen Shaoguang visited the new store to check on the renovation progress, she made a point to stop by the princess's mansion. Through the courtyard wall, she could almost catch the scent of early-blooming osmanthus wafting through the air.

Osmanthus was versatile, lending its fragrance to Osmanthus Flavored Sesame Seed Candy, Osmanthus Flavored Date Paste Flat Cake, Osmanthus And Yam Cake, Osmanthus-Honey-Topped Glutinous-Rice-Stuffed Lotus Root, Osmanthus Flavored Glutinous Rice Balls in Sweet Rice Wine. It could also be used in stews with duck, chicken, and ribs, as well as in various sweet congees and beverages.

Shen Shaoguang gazed at the wall of the princess's mansion with envy. Princess Imperial of fuhui had indeed acquired a treasure. If she could have such a grand house filled with all kinds of flowers to savor, she might truly be able to compile a "Countless Flowers Chart," detailing the myriad flavors, as referenced in the <Classic of Mountains and Seas>.

Fantasizing about the Princess's Mansion, Shen Shaoguang felt her innate Monopoly player soul, always eager to acquire properties, stirring within her. Though purchasing a Princess's Mansion in this lifetime was out of the question, acquiring other ‘wretched houses’ remained a possibility.

There were many wretched houses like this in Chang'an City, including one in Chongxian Lane. However, the ‘wretched house’ in Chongxian Lane was not as notorious as Chixia Garden, nor as grand. It consisted of a three-courtyard estate. Word had it that the original owner, a merchant from the south, died shortly after purchasing it. The subsequent owner, childless and later becoming an itinerant trader in Youzhou Province, fell victim to bandit attacks. His wife, troubled by the house's reputation, sought the help of Buddhist monks and Taoist priests to dispel any lingering malevolence. Fearing unrest and further provocation, she eventually moved out.

During the Lantern Festival, as she passed by this house, Shen Shaoguang noticed it was pitch black inside. For those with a vivid imagination, countless ghost stories could be spun from such a scene.

Yet, even if it was a wretched house, purchasing it was beyond Shen Shaoguang's means. As she pondered her villa in Nanshan and her vacation house by the Wei River, she realized she still had a long way to go.

Shen Shaoguang turned back to the store under renovation. It was slightly larger than Shen Indelible's current location, facing the main street and originally a silk and satin shop. The interior was relatively clean with minimal renovation needed. Shen Shaoguang felt very satisfied—from admiring the princess's mansion's expansive gardens to overseeing her new store just a few buildings away. Despite the contrast between the two, akin to a hungry ghost dreaming of delicacies like bear paws and deer tails but content with steamed buns and pork head meat, Shen Shaoguang harbored no envy over wealth disparity.

Because it was a branch, consistency in style was essential. The design featured whitewashed walls, wooden partitions, and clay brick floors adorned with Hu-style carpets. Shen Shaoguang and Shao Jie agreed on adding a long, intricately carved folding screen as a centerpiece. One side would accommodate a traditional low dining table, while the other side would feature a high table surrounded by Hu-style chairs and benches.

Nowadays, wealthy families also incorporate high tables and chairs, but low furniture remains predominant. Shen Indelible also utilized low dining tables, which gradually made Shen Shaoguang realize their inconvenience—low furniture hindered communal meals.

Shao Jie clapped his hands. "Exactly! Vice Minister Ji used a large table arrangement during their banquet in Qujiang District, allowing more than ten people to sit in a circle, creating a very intimate and lively atmosphere!"

Shen Shaoguang added, "We can incorporate several of those large tables you mentioned, accommodating more than 10 or 20 people, and also include smaller tables for three or four. This way, it will cater to those dining alone, or with a companion, or hosting a small gathering."

Shao Jie agreed enthusiastically, "Excellent idea!"

Shao Jie, well-versed in Chang'an's tavern culture, remarked, "Introducing high tables to our establishment would indeed be pioneering in Chang'an. From what I know, taverns and eateries here haven't tried this before. My only concern is that some traditionalists might criticize us without fully understanding the concept."

Shen Shaoguang grinned mischievously. "If this sparks debate among the common folk in the capital, we might not even need stalls in the East and West Markets." Infamy is also a form of publicity.

Shao Jie looked at Shen Shaoguang, surprised by her perspective. How could she see things this way? Yet, it seemed she might be right after all...

Shen Shaoguang became earnest again. "Sir, haven't you noticed? Throughout history, we've evolved from sitting on the floor, to cushions and low tables, to Hu-style couches, drum stools, and now high tables. This shift from low to high seating is a natural progression. Those opposed to this change are like mantises trying to stop a chariot!"

Shao Jie clasped his right fist with his left hand firmly. "In the future, I'll argue with those stubborn folks just like this!"

Shen Shaoguang burst out laughing.

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The author has something to say:

Author: Deputy Magistrate ah, it's just washing hands, can you stop with your antics?

Lin Yan smiled: I yearn for this every morning...

Shen Shaoguang: Is he being a hooligan again?

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Footnotes:

[1] Tianbao Era incident - The text didn’t specifically state it, but it's probably referring to the An Lushan rebellion. The An Lushan rebellion was an eight-year civil war (from 755 to 763 AD) during the mid-point of the Tang dynasty that started as a commandery rebellion, attempting to overthrow and replace the Imperial Government with the rogue Yan dynasty.

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/An_Lushan_rebellion 

[2] ‘Wretched Houses’ - Good ole Bai Juyi. I just directly copied this wonderful person’s (Hei Fengcong /黑瘋驄) translation of the poem - https://tangshi.tuxfamily.org/baijuyi/0004.html

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Foods: 

 Osmanthus Flavored Date Paste Flat Cake (桂花枣泥饼) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otDKqTNxsw8